“I am a hands on designer and make is integral to my philosophy. It’s crucial how a piece of clothing feels when worn. I’ve always wanted clothes to be the way I drew them – relaxed, lived in, a natural look.” Margaret Howell
As soon as I arrived outside Howell’s Wigmore Street show room, around eight O’Clock and bleary eyed having had no sleep the night before. I had tossed and turned after a nightmare that I had slept through my alarm and missed the show. Heeding this as a warning, I set out far too early just to be on the safe side. The show was scheduled for 9:00am sharp on the Third day of London Fashion Week. Totally under dressed for the weather I stood and shivered on the corner whilst I awaited my fashion week buddy Lawrence.
As I stood and watched the people milling about start forming into a snaking queue, I realised this wasn’t the usual crowd to be found at Sommerset House. This was the fashion elite. I didn’t recognise faces from my spot across the street, it was more subtle than that. The flip of a collar, the quality of a simple white shirt, a Celine bag, it is hard to put into words. Yet I didn’t feel it would be right to whip out my camera, like it would burst this dream bubble somehow. I continued to watch in awe, until Lawrence jumped out of a cab, grabbed my hand and we ran in just as the show was about to start. In the tiny showroom space it was easy to see faces up close, Alexandra Shulman, Hillary Alexander, Melanie Rickey. I could go on, all the top fashion editors.
The lights dimmed and to the notes of Joni Mitchel, Margaret Howell’s latest collection came sauntering down the runway. I would like to call it summer in a box. Howell has never been about in your face design, but simple, perfectly constructed, beautiful clothes you can wear forever. In a colour pallet of white, pale blue, cobalt, navy and khaki greens a pop of coral gave a new take on nautical. The coral was further emphasized in the make-up. Barefaced, glowing skin with rose bud coral-red lips. Hair in loose knots. No heels necessary with thick strap leather sandals, perfectly paired with red ankle socks. A simple styling trick yes, but somehow it seemed like a whole new revelation. One thing I always find with Howell is her attention to detail, here contrasting buttons, knotted scarves, double length belts tucked around the back and the flash of a red lining.
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